Onabay 2007 "Black Crown" Merlot: Dark, Plenty of Oak

There are a lot of old names in Long Island Wine Country, stalwarts like Lenz, Bedell, and Paumanok. Yet there is the new crowd fermenting the North Fork region, wineries such as One Woman, Sparkling Point, and, in this case, new label Onabay Vineyards.

The wine: Onabay Vineyards "Black Crown" 2007 Merlot, which has a deep and dark magenta color.

Aromas (Nose): Dark is definitely the word here, with scents of spiced oak, smokey, dried plum, vanilla, and an almost grassy, green overtone.

Flavors (Palate): Black plum fruit with a bright edge up front, with a tang like plum skin or dried gooseberries. Hints of strawberry jam, plenty of toasted oak with a chocolate note on the finish. Medium bodied, silky, with bright acidity. Not overly tannic at all.

Food pairing: Roasted, thick-cut pork chops, stuffed with seasonal apple stuffing.

Wine fact: Aged for 12 months in a mix of old and 20 percent new French oak, which explains the nice vanilla notes in the wine.

Belabor the obvious: Onabay's vineyards are on the Peconic Bay.

Price: $19 at The Tasting Room.