Channing Daughters Ramato Makes the Case for More Orange Wine

There are only a few styles of wine. Still, sparkling, fortified, red, white, rose and dessert. But orange wine? It's true. This little known, and little-made type of wine is made by letting the juice from white grapes spend a little time sitting on the skins during fermentation, which turns the juice a coppery color. Around the world its know as the "ramato" style, and Bridgehampton's Channing Daughters Winery makes a couple of them on Long Island.

The wine: Ramato 2008 Pinot Grigio, an orange-colored wine made from 100 percent pinot grigio grapes in the ramato style and aged on older French and Slovakian oak for 9 months before being bottled.

Aromas (Nose): Very complex. Fruity notes of apricot and prune juice mix with notes of smoke, an almond nuttiness, fruitcake, preserved lemon and beeswax.

Taste (Palate): Just as complex, though overall it's tart and fresh. Fruit flavors of dried orange rind, lemon rind, flinty smoke, lemon, coriander and apricot, mix with a very bitter grapefruit pith flavor on the long finish, which rounds out with a touch of vanilla. The acidity is mellow in this medium-bodied white.

Food: Masala rubbed pork loin served with a curried rice pilaf.

Verdict: This is a real treat for the price, especially given how complex it is. If you've never had an orange wine, no preconceived notion can prepare you for the flavors. Well worth it.

Price: $20 at the winery.

Interested in submitting samples for review? E-mail henry@patch.com.