Floral Nose Sticks Out for One Woman Gewurztraminer

For the past few months we've featured this column on local wines, and the feedback has been great. That's why we want to step up the effort. First, we're changing the name to "The Wines of Long Island," to better capture what this column is about. We want to be your favorite, bookmarked and evolving catalogue of the hundreds of great wines being crafted on the North Fork, the South Fork and in a few other places on Long Island. This region is growing by the month, in size and reputation, so we need to help you keep track of all the great juice out there. Our philosophy is simple: We're not here to pan or praise, but to give you our impression of the flavors and aromas of these varied wines. This isn't a column for wine geeks. It's for all of you, the community of the East End, to be better educated about what there is to offer in local wine. Look for a new wine every few days.

The following wine comes from one of the newer vineyards on Long Island, Southold's , which is making only a few boutique wines, including one very aromatic white.

The wine: One Woman Wines 2007 Gewürztraminer, a deep gold wine fermented using three different strains of yeast, including native yeasts, to add complexity.

Aromas (Nose): Huge floral scents attack the nose first, followed by aromas of apricot, honeysuckle, jasmine, dried pineapple and lychee. Incredibly deep, with the apricot aromas developing more as the wine breathes.

Taste (Palate): After experiencing such a deep and honey-driven aromas, the flavors can be a bit of a surprise, with notes of bitter grapefruit pith, white pepper, beeswax, tart lemon, white peach, and honey followed by a very strong, perfumy-floral finish. This isn't a wine for everybody, the floral notes can be tough to enjoy for someone who has never had a wine made from the Gewürztraminer grape before. But don't let that stop you from trying something new.

Food pairing: Gewürztraminer typically pairs well with Asian food, but to not get in the way of the aromatics, perhaps pair it with a simple plate of nutty cheeses such as Gruyère.

Price: $25 at the tasting room.

Interested in submitting samples for review? E-mail henry@patch.com.